Le Train Bleu
Review

In a nutshell

Location: Gare de Lyon, Pl. Louis-Armand, 75012 Paris, France
Price: Starters from €21, Mains from €35
Website: https://www.le-train-bleu.com/
Opening hours: Restaurant: 11:15 am to 2:30 pm – 7 pm to 10.30 pm / Lounge Bar from 7:30 am to 10:30 pm
Book a table: reservation.trainbleu@ssp.fr | Tel: +33 1 43 43 09 06
Status: Highly recommended
Rating: ♥♥♥♥♥

Can you really say that you have experienced Paris if you haven’t eaten at one of the hallmark restaurants of the French capital? Well, probably not. But like in many famed cities, it is sometimes difficult to tell the difference between a tourist trap and a monument of French cuisine. Le Train Bleu unquestionably is one of the brightest examples of fine cooking in Paris — and a wonderful way to treat yourself in the City of Light.

I’m a sucker for old-fashioned places. I like spending the evening at those pretend-speakeasies that won’t let you in without the password, and my idea of a good time involves donning a pretty dress to pretend I’m the protagonist of one of those Hitchcock movies. My favourite brasserie in Belgium, Brasserie Albert in Ostende, has probably not changed one bit since 1933, except perhaps for one lightbulb or two. So obviously, I cannot resist Le Train Bleu, with its high ceilings, golden arches, oh-so-traditional maîtres d’hôtel, and absurdly delicious cuisine.

Whats is Le Train Bleu?

Opened in 1901 as the Gare de Lyon’s station restaurant (or “buffet”), Le Train Bleu was given its current name in 1963 to honour the Paris-Vintimille train, dubbed “train bleu” because it linked Paris to the seaside. In 1972, some of the rooms became listed monuments for their exceptional architecture. And it is fair, seeing that nothing much of the décor has changed since the origins of the restaurant, making it a truly striking example of Belle Époque design. Saying that Le Train Bleu is beautiful is an understatement, and the visit is worth it for the history of the place alone.

If you like Fench films, chances are that the décor of Le Train Bleu will look somewhat familiar to you. While researching tidbits of interest for this post, I realised that for no reason whatsoever, we had been given the table at which Anne Parillaud and Tcheky Karyo sat for the Train Bleu scene in Luc Besson’s Nikita (1990), which is apparently the most requested table of the restaurant (the one that faces the clock). It was a happy coincidence (all the more that I remember nothing of the film). You can also see it in Travels with My Aunt (1972) by George Cukor with Maggie Smith and Alec McCowen, and in Mr. Bean’s Holiday (2007).

What to expect when you eat at Le Train Bleu?

Practically speaking, I had booked our table a month ahead, because we do not exactly go to Paris every week. It probably was a bit of an excess of caution on my part as it turned out that the restaurant was operating at about a third of its seating capacity when we got there. I assume this had to do with (1) our eating there in the middle of the week, and (2) the fact that the French government had announced only two days before that only the people who had received both doses of the Covid-19 vaccine were allowed to attend activities indoors, including going to the restaurant. All the same, it is probably better to book your table in advance just in case.

If you’re coming by car, and not by train, your driver will drop you at Place Louis-Armand outside the station. Proceed inside and take the rather impressive stairs to the first floor. Wait to be seated, relax, and prepare to be taken care of by the gentlest, most entertaining waitstaff you’ve ever met. The people who work there love their job, and you can really feel it, which of course adds to the general atmosphere of theatrical luxury. The only other place to which I can compare Le Train Bleu in terms of service and ambience is the Thames Foyer at the Savoy in London.

We had some Champagne, of course (because what’s the point of dining in Paris if you cannot indulge in a glass of proper bubbly?) and the complimentary amuse-bouche, a white fish mousse with pickled beetroot, which was lovely. We chose to eat à la carte instead of ordering from the menu because we wanted to try the classic dishes that have made the reputation of Le Train Bleu (I promise to be more adventurous on my next visit), so I had the lobster salad and watercress emulsion and Jon had the home-smoked salmon for starters, followed by the Salers beef tartare for me and the Roast leg of local lamb served at our table from the carving trolley for Jon. Needless to say, it was all spectacular. But more importantly, it was delicious.

For the dessert, we had the Rum baba, served with an entire bottle of rum of which you are free to drink as much as you like. As we had asked our maître d’ for the wine pairing with our dishes, and since he was rather generous with the quantities, it is fair to say that we were a little tipsy by the end of the meal, which we concluded with coffee, and, well, another glass of rum.

For a couple of years, Le Train Bleu’s cuisine had a poor reputation, and though people still came (after all it is an iconic place), it wasn’t so much for the food as it was for the status. It is no longer the case. Since 2019, Chef Samir Balia (whose CV is basically a roadmap of French gastronomy) has teamed up with Michel Rostang (who holds two Michelin stars) to produce the finest cuisine ever cooked in or nearby a train station, making Le Train Bleu a beacon of French cuisine once again. Everything is fresh, subtle, and so decidedly hearty. They are certainly not reinventing the wheel, but they make honest food based on terroir with a twist, and that’s really all you want from a place like Le Train Bleu.

I’m not going to lie to you, it is pricier than your average Parisian brasserie, but you already knew that, didn’t you? For two people, the Champagne/starters/main/dessert with wine pairing, coffee, and tip, will run you a little under €300 (£250/$340). That being said the “Traveller’s Menu” is €49 (£40/$55) and is served in under 45 minutes in case you’re in a hurry. Good to know: if you’re not in the mood for a full dinner/lunch experience, Le Train Bleu also has a bar, where you’ll find wonderful sandwiches and salads that will definitely complement whatever beer or cocktail catches your fancy. And last but not least, there’s the “Traveller’s Box”, a three-course takeaway hamper for a very reasonable price (€35/£29/$40), which is absolutely perfect for a nice picnic at the nearby Jardin des plantes.

All texts and pictures ©Ms. Unexpected.