You know how sometimes you’re watching TV and suddenly you see a place that looks perfect and you think something like “Oh wow, I’d sure love to be there right now”? Some people experience that longing for a place they have never visited when they see tropical islands, blue lagoons, or pretty mountains. Personally, I have that when I see a nice restaurant, a cosy pub, or a cute library. And I’m sure I’m not the only one.
Remember 2012, when we all were really into Sherlock? Benedict Cumberbatch was the hottest man on the planet somehow and we were laughing at the BBC execs for initially not wanting him on the show because he wasn’t “sexy enough”. He wasn’t Doctor Strange yet, and Martin Freeman still had a couple of years ahead before becoming Richard III, though he had, of course, already been Arthur Dent. Mark Gatiss and Steven Moffat were all the rage after their success with Doctor Who. It really was the golden age of British state-owned television for Anglophile nerds like me. Anyway, 2012 was the year that the world surprisingly didn’t end—much to the chagrin of Mayan calendar doomsday preppers—, the Eurovision was won by Swedish entrant Loreen with the song “Euphoria”, which no one remembers, and Barack Obama was re-elected as President of the United States. And of course, 2012 gave us the second season of Sherlock, which consisted of three episodes issued two years after the first series, in the purest British tradition of torturing the audience and the general philosophy that “they’ll get the new episodes when they get them.”
Jon and I were watching the second episode of that second series, The Hounds of Baskervilles, and we were a good half hour in when the camera panned out on a cute little building where Sherlock and Watson purported to (1) get a beer, and (2) pursue their investigation. The familiar feeling crept into my heart. “Oh wow,” I thought, “I’d sure love to be there right now.” The place was an inn called The Cross Keys that boasted (at least according to the board on the pavement) boutique rooms and a vegetarian restaurant. It was a small farmhouse made of stone with bow windows and a thatch roof, seemingly located in a charming (albeit kind of haunted) village somewhere in the British countryside.
I think over two years had passed when, on my third rewatch of the episode, I decided on a whim to check whether the Cross Keys existed at all. Not only did it exist, but it was in Wales! It was called the Bush Inn and it was located in the small village of Saint Hilary (Cowbridge), less than half an hour away by car from Cardiff, where we had planned to go on our next trip. That was lucky.
I booked a table for two online, and a couple of weeks later, we were on our merry way through the idyllic Welsh landscape for hopefully a nice lunch.
It had just stopped raining when we arrived in Saint Hilary. We parked by the church, and because we were a bit early for our booking, we decided to take a walk around the village, which was indeed very picturesque. Jon likes to take any casual walk to the next level and turn it into an adventure based on the possibility of unknowingly trespassing or being chased by large dogs, and that’s how we stumbled upon a strange little hut-like building, which we later learnt was a reconstructed Iron Age roundhouse. I don’t know about you, but I find some comfort in knowing that everywhere around the world, there are people like those who built this roundhouse—quirky people who are not afraid to follow their passions and make some room in their lives for their enthusiasm to flourish.
At last, it was time for lunch. The Bush Inn was every bit the same as it was in The Hounds of Baskerville. We were promptly seated, and after honouring the centuries-old tradition of ordering a pint of the local beer while commenting on the weather, we soon started perusing the menu. Jon picked the beef pie, and I chose the chicken Cotswold. Everything was delicious, the atmosphere was very cosy, and the service was quick and efficient. We had a wonderful time, and so did the production of Sherlock apparently, as they made a £500 donation to the village, which the community used on improving the Roman Road between St Hilary and Cowbridge.
The dessert absolutely calls for a special mention. It was a thing of pure beauty, and I’ve often caught myself daydreaming about it ever since I ate it. It consisted of a sticky toffee pudding with a slice of goodness-dripping honeycomb, served with warm custard. (I am literally salivating as I write this.) Of course, I asked for tea to go with that, and a glass of brandy for good measure. At the end of the meal, I felt the way I assume people who do yoga or go to church feel: I was content, and at peace with the world. And that’s the thing with beautiful food; it makes everything all right.
The reason why I love the Bush Inn in Saint Hilary is this: sure, it is nice to be in a place that was featured in a show you like, but on top of that, it truly is a lovely place. So much so that we went back three times during our various trips to Wales, and the only reason we stopped going was because of the Brexit/Covid-19 restrictions combo.
During one of our subsequent visits in the winter, we found ourselves delightfully cold from our now-traditional walk around the village, and we sat by the open fire while waiting for our meals. Trust me when I tell you that it doesn’t get any better than this. I heartfully recommend the Bush Inn. Just go. Take a walk in Saint Hilary; see the roundhouse, walk among the graves in the churchyard; maybe check out Old Beaupre Castle nearby—then take all the time in the world to bask in the glorious atmosphere of the Bush Inn.
Information
Address: St Hilary, Cowbridge, CF71 7DP
Website: The Bush Inn
Phone: +44(0)1446776888
Opening hours: Wednesday to Thursday from 12 to 3 pm and from 5 to 10 pm. Friday to Saturday from 12 pm to 10 pm. Sunday from 12 to 7 pm.
Book a table at the Bush Inn.