I had no thought then of husband or lover, I was a traveller, the guest of a week; Yet when they pointed ‘the white cliffs of Dover’, Startled I found there were tears on my cheek.
“The White Cliffs” by Alice Duer Miller (1940)
I remember my first day in England as clear as day. My school had organised a trip to London for us to practice whatever we were supposed to have learnt in our English course. I was fifteen. The sun was shining in the early morning, the sea was calm and my friends and I were on the deck of the ferry from Calais. At the time, because we lived in the pre-9/11 era, there were fewer controls than nowadays. We generally enjoyed more freedom and, symptomatically, we could simply go up and down the stairs from one deck to another, which is forbidden now. So, there we were, at the bow, trying to figure out who would spot England first. I don’t remember who did, but I do remember the effect that the White Cliffs of Dover had on me.
In many aspects, to a foreigner like me, the White Cliffs are a promise. They are the physical evidence that you are travelling. As much as I enjoy approaching London in a Eurostar train, I have to admit that the journey is mainly made of tunnels and suddenly, you see the Gherkin (30 St Mary Axe, as the official name goes) and London is there. If I am being honest, I find it all a bit anticlimactic in terms of adventurous journeys. However, the White Cliffs, standing tall like a centuries-old scar on the green face of the sea, are something else.
A couple of years ago, about fifteen years and many travels later, it was time for me to see them again. It would have been stupid not to since the crossing is really cheap and England is only 40 kilometres away from the continent (I love the way the English think they live on a different continent, by the way). I was as pleased to see the Cliffs as when I was a teenager, and I felt the same sense of promise.
If you dislike having sand in your shoes (or god forbid, between your toes) and if, like Jon, you have that feeling deep down that the whole civilisation is at stake when you need to walk on a sandy beach, the “naked shingles” of Dover beach might be just the right thing for you, though pebbles are not very comfortable to walk on if you are barefoot, though it’s not really the point when, like us, you prefer going to the beach during winter anyway.
Like many towns on the English seaside, Dover expanded during the 19th century as a result of the gradual development of the harbour and railway services. The population increased by 600% and the Promenade Pier was built (it was later dismantled) together with the seafront hotels and apartments.
Dover may be a gate between the continent and England, but I think it is a gorgeous town in its own right. Don’t just drive off to Canterbury or Hastings; Dover is worth a walk, and seaside towns are so romantically calm in the offseason. The Maison Dieu House (grade II listed building), just next to the Maison Dieu, is absolutely exquisite.
St Mary’s Church on High Street is a lovely stop if you are into deciphering writings on (very) old tombstones.
And of course, a visit to Dover would not be complete without a walk on the White Cliffs, the best place on earth to get emotional or to do some soul-searching, as you will discover in my next post about the White Cliffs Country Trail. In the meantime, I’ll just leave you with a few pictures to whet your appetite.
Tips
Where to stay?
Best Western Plus Dover Marina Hotel & Spa | Waterloo Crescent, Dover CT17 9BP, +441304203633, https://www.dovermarinahotel.co.uk/ (from £69/night in a double room).
The very picturesque Dover Marina Hotel has kept its very Victorian vibe and its sloped floors. Be careful, the hotel tends to host weddings, so if you’re allergic to noise and parties, pick a bed and breakfast instead.
Maison Dieu Guest House | 89 Maison Dieu Rd, Dover CT16 1RU, +441304204033, http://www.maisondieu.co.uk/ (from £65/night in a double room).
The Maison Dieu Guest House is a charming bed and breakfast located in the city centre. Some rooms offer a breathtaking view on the Castle. I definitely recommend it.
Where to eat?
The Hythe Bay | The Esplanade, Dover CT17 9FS, +441304207740, http://www.hythebay.co.uk/ (± £35/person)
Fish and seafood specialities with a seaside view.
What to avoid?
If you’re a sensitive continental like me, you should probably avoid The Eight Bells on Cannon Street, as the anti-European/Brexit propaganda is pretty strong there, like in all JD Wetherspoon pubs. Let’s just say the atmosphere isn’t very welcoming.
