Beautiful Deal

You know how sometimes you find a place that gives you that particular feeling of contentment without really being able to pinpoint why? Deal is one of those places. With its tranquil quaintness and its one-of-a-kind beach, the small seaside town has it all, without ever being overwhelming.

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Brexit Disclaimer: Look, I have no idea how things are going to evolve with the whole Brexit thing. I don’t know whether any agreement will be signed, how much the tourist visa will be for EU citizens, or whether I’ll still want to go to the UK after the 31st of December 2020. Not a clue. But in the meantime, I’ll keep posting about my travels in the UK, because it used to be a fine place, one I loved passionately, and one that could be just that again at some point.

Magical Deal

Two things really struck me when I first came to Deal. The first was the unique colour of the sea, and the second, the eerie charm of the town. Located just twenty minutes away from Dover on the East Coast of England, Deal is a place like no other.

Arriving in Deal is like slipping into a time vortex that will take you to that indefinite period in which Roald Dahl, Lemony Snicket and Mary Norton‘s stories are set. The row of quirky, not-quite Georgian houses on the seafront resembles the painted backdrop of our childhood imagination, and I wouldn’t be too surprised if it was home to some benevolent witches, the likes of Mary Poppins or Eglantine Price — or if I saw Caractacus Plott’s formidable car appear around the bend. To put it briefly, there’s some magic floating in the air.

And it’s not just the atmosphere; there are some really tangible pieces of evidence to Deal’s charm too. From the old Regent Cinema with its unconventional architecture to the fishing boats that rest on the shingle, the whole place looks like an Instagrammer’s fever dream.

What to do?

I suspect that what I do in Deal may be a little anticlimactic for you since most of my time there is spent doing either of the following things:

1. Walking aimlessly in the narrow streets.
2. Sitting on a bench and looking at the sea.
3. Taking a long walk to Sandwich, the next town over.

There’s a reason for that: Deal is the perfect place to escape the overwhelming pace of our everyday lives. It’s quiet, calm, and quaint. I am always surprised at how relaxed I am when I wake up in the morning, open the curtains and see the peaceful movement of the tide by the pier. It genuinely is one of my favourite places on earth to relax and reflect, not just because it is pretty, but because of its stillness.

But yes, it is very, very pretty, and the people of Deal do make efforts to make sure that their few yards of façade contribute to the beauty of the town. I particularly like taking a tour of the doors of Deal and looking at the stylish (and often beyond bizarre) door knockers (but I’m a weirdo, so let’s move on).

Jon’s favourite activity is to walk to Sandwich – because we’re idiots who find it hilarious to eat a sandwich in Sandwich (really I’m glad we’ve found each other because no one else would put up with either of us). We could definitely take the bus or our car for that matter, but no, Jon gently but firmly insists that we should walk for reasons that aren’t quite clear to me, but which seem to pertain to the realm of healthy living and exercise, which I abhor, so he misrepresents the whole thing as a romantic walk and I pretend to buy it.

Now the walk is fairly straightforward in that there’s a seaside path that will lead you straight to Sandwich, and you really cannot get lost because (1) Sandwich is literally the next town you’ll arrive to, and (2) you just have to follow the shore.

Note: If at any point the sea is no longer on your right-hand side, you’ve made a mistake and should adjust your trajectory accordingly. You moron.

It is a pleasant walk, with no technical difficulties whatsoever. Just wear proper walking shoes as there might be mud here and there. Expect the stroll to take up to two hours, as the distance between Deal and Sandwich is nearly 6 miles (10 km), which is why we take the bus back to Deal (80, 80A, 81, 81A from Guildhall) otherwise I’d just complain for the rest of the day that my feet hurt and I have blisters and I want a nice cuppa and I need to pee.

The other thing you absolutely, definitely and non-negotiably need to do when you’re in Deal is to admire the pier. Now, I may not be completely objective here because I am partial to a nice pier, but this one really is a bit different in that contrarily to most British seaside piers, this one isn’t a Victorian construction. There used to be a Victorian pier though, built in 1838, but it was destroyed by a gale in 1857 (it was made of wood) and subsequently replaced by an iron structure in 1864, which didn’t survive past WWII, as it was struck by the Nora, a mined ship, in 1940.

Deal’s current pier was opened to the public in 1957 and it is a Grade II listed building. With its rigid, block-like appearance and large-scale use of the poured concrete technique, it is a lovely representative of surviving brutalist architecture, which is far too rare nowadays if you ask me for my opinion, which no one ever does. I love the symmetry of the whole thing as well as the eerie atmosphere of complete solitude one can find there during winter evenings.

For some reason, it is often said that the pier in Deal is exactly the same length as the RMS Titanic, which is incorrect. The Titanic was 882 ft (269 m) in length while the pier is 1026 ft (311 m), but let’s not let the truth get in the way of a good story. There is a three-tier pierhead that hosts a lovely café with a view, public toilets (always good to know) and fishing decks. The pier was refurbished in 2008.

On a clear day, if you stand on the pier and look to your right, you can see Calais, and further away, Dunkirk.

The seafront offers a nice selection of pubs, if it is your thing, some of which with outside seating for the complete British seaside experience of having a pint outside, wrapped up in a blanket (not included) and pretending you’re not cold at all despite the shivering you’re now experiencing because you won’t remove your wet coat for fear of getting even colder. 10/10 would recommend, though first-timers should probably order a slightly stronger beverage.

You may not know this (at least, I didn’t know), but Deal is home to the only known monument donated personally by Lord Nelson. Now I hear you, it may sound just mildly interesting at best, but as someone who loves a walk in a nice cemetery, I do enjoy that sort of thing.

The small churchyard in the town centre, half-converted into a public garden like many others across the UK, hosts the tomb of Captain Edward T. Parker, who was Nelson’s aide-de-camp and was badly wounded during the attack on Boulogne on the 15th of August 1801. He died of his injury a month later in his family home in Deal and was buried in the town cemetery. Nelson was so fond of the 23-year-old captain that he ordered that the funeral be conducted with full military honours and paid for the tomb himself. It is said that the Vice-Admiral was so afflicted by the loss of his aide-de-camp that he was seen having to hold himself steady against a tree by the graveside.

I mean, it certainly isn’t the most exciting touristic destination, but I, for one, think it’s worth taking five minutes out of your day to go there and have a look at the monument.

Where to stay?

The Clarendon Hotel

The Clarendon Hotel is one of those seafront hotels that have a real personality. Granted, it may not look like much from the outside, but it happens to be one of my favourite hotels in the UK because it fits perfectly with both the atmosphere of Deal and what I expect from a seaside hotel.

I’ve seen a few reviews of The Clarendon on TripAdvisor that were extremely unfair to it in that their authors were criticising the fact that the hotel wasn’t very modern, which is probably what prompted the owners to undertake renovations in 2016. I love that the hotel is quaint and authentic. It’s typically the sort of place that hasn’t changed much in the past century, and it’s exactly what I like in a seaside hotel. There is, as we say in French, some cachet to the whole thing.

I particularly like the sea-view rooms (who wouldn’t?) but in the course of our numerous stays at The Clarendon, we’ve basically tried all the types of bedrooms available and enjoyed each one of them. I particularly like the wood panelling that never fails to remind me of old-fashioned cruise ship cabins, as well as the discreet seaside-themed decoration. I’m not impressed with modern hotels with loud façades that generally pollute the seafront on the Continent, so The Clarendon offers a much-welcomed respite from all that nonsense.

The Clarendon Hotel doesn’t offer a warm breakfast, but a cold breakfast made of cereals comes free with every room, and there are about nine places in a one-mile radius around the hotel where you can get a full English breakfast at a very acceptable cost. Alternatively, I recommend going to J. C. Rook & Sons Ltd (77-81 High Street) for an apple and custard turnover to die for. One of Jon’s fondest memories involves one of their chorizo rolls eaten while sitting on a bench in front of the sea on a summer morning.

Back at The Clarendon, I think the staff deserves a special mention as all of the people we’ve ever interacted with there have always been particularly lovely and attentive to our well-being, making the place our official quarters in Deal, whether it be for a night or for four.

Stay at The Clarendon Hotel & Bar

• Address: 51 – 53 Beach Street, Deal, Kent, CT14 6HY
• Telephone: +44(0)1304 374748
• Website: https://www.theclarendon-hotel.com/

Pro tip: Use discount code SPRING10 for 10% off when booking between the 15th of February and the 1st of April 2020.

Where to eat?

For such a small town, Deal has a surprising array of pubs and restaurants, each of them boasting its own quirks and atmosphere. I have selected two of them for you, but don’t hesitate to explore and see what catches your fancy.

Ms. Unexpected’s choice: The Court Yard Bar & Restaurant

My favourite restaurant in Deal, and probably in all of England, is The Court Yard, a beautiful cocktail bar and gastronomic restaurant that boasts one of the finest menus I have ever seen in my travels. With its ‘relaxed grown-up ambience’ and its glass roof that makes it possible for diners to eat under the stars, The Court Yard is the perfect place for a romantic night out, especially since on certain nights they hire a singer (I have very fond memories of a bossa nova rendition of Van Morrison’s Caravan on a warm summer night).

The food is tasty, precise, nuanced and made of the finest ingredients. As you may know, I am partial to mussels, and especially to those of the Shetland variety, so I wholeheartedly recommend The Court Yard’s Shetland mussels in local cider with leeks, which are as close to a spiritual experience as you’ll ever get in a restaurant. Jon’s pick would definitely be the blood pudding or the rolled shoulder of lamb with its dauphinoise potatoes, braised red cabbage, roasted parsnip, parsnip puree, oyster mushrooms and red wine gravy.

Bonus: With the bottle of house Champagne Brut Tradition at only £27.50, it would be a crime not to order it, especially since The Court Yard is one of the few English restaurants where I know for certain that Champagne is served each time at an adequate temperature. And as far as I am concerned, I’ll have that modest yet astringent house Champagne over Laurent Perrier any day.

Do yourself a favour and eat at The Court Yard – you’ll thank me later.

Eat at the Court Yard

• Address: The Old Coach House, Sondes Road, Deal Kent, CT14 7BW.
• Opening hours: from 12 to late Tuesday-Sunday.
• Telephone: +44(0)1304 366661
• Website: https://www.thecourtyarddeal.co.uk/

The Queen Street Tap

If you want to eat a simpler meal or if your walk to Sandwich has left you famished and you suddenly feel like indulging in 20 sticky chicken wings (I kid you not), then The Queen Street Tap is exactly what you need. With its hipsterish decor and its highly Instagram-worthy patio, it is the place to be if you’re young and trendy (or if you’re old and bitter and trying desperately to cling to your youth like me).

Nice staff, earthy food, good ales. Really, life doesn’t get any better than this.

Eat at The Queen Street Tap

• Address: 42-44 Queen Street, Deal, CT14 6EY
• Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday from 10 am to 11 pm, Friday 10 am – 02 pm, Saturday 10 am – 02:30 pm.
• Phone: +44(0)1304803644
• Website: https://www.craft-pubs.co.uk/queenstreettapdeal

Lovely pub: The Bohemian

The first time we stumbled upon The Bohemian, it immediately felt like home. We had been driving from Wales for the majority of the day, and when we arrived in Deal, it was raining cats and dogs. In fact, there was so much wind that the rain came from all directions at once, and in the time it took us to walk from the parking lot (literally one minute away), we were soaking wet. There was a storm on the Channel, and it was dark and cold. And then The Bohemian appeared like a beacon in the night. Needless to say, many a whisky was drunk that night.

It has now become a tradition for us to go and have a drink or two at The Bohemian each time we’re in Deal. They make a mean Bloody Mary (upon request) and serve all sorts of traditional pub beverages, on top of an honourable selection of whiskies and a surprisingly large collection of bottled Belgian beers. The decor is absolutely adorable (and very bohemian indeed) and the clientele is friendly.

Have drinks at The Bohemian

• Address: 47 Beach Street, Deal, Kent, CT14 6HY
• Opening hours: pretty much all the time
• Website: http://www.thebohemian.co.uk/

Where to shop: Farsim Collection Boutique

Like most things in Deal, Farsim Collection Boutique is a quirky affair. I first entered the shop because I had spotted a large beetle brooch in the window (I’m a sucker for insect-themed brooches) and I came out with two brooches and a beautiful vintage green velvet Irish folk dress which is now a staple of my wardrobe. Jon almost bought a Liberace-like sequined tuxedo jacket, because that’s the kind of items you’re bound to find (and fall in love with) at Farsim Collection Boutique.

We had a long conversation with Simone, the co-owner of the shop, who genuinely is one of the nicest people I’ve ever met – and one who loves a talk with his customers. I have to say, there is some sort of a nostalgic feeling there, like the memory of a time when you actually interacted with people and got to know them instead of just going in and out of a shop in less than eight minutes in order to purchase whatever mass-produced item is the flavour of the day. There, you can take your time to find the one vintage piece you didn’t know you wanted.

In terms of price, Farsim Collection Boutique isn’t at the cheapest end of the spectrum (though I’ve seen much less reasonable pricing in much less nice places) but given the quality and originality of the pieces you’ll find there, I think it’s fair to splurge a little. Plus, you know, the insect-themed jewellery. Because let me ask you this: where else are you going to find a giant black glass spider brooch? Exactly.

Shop at Farsim Collection Boutique

• Address: 33 Beach Street (Opposite Deal Pier) Deal, KentCT14 6HY 
• Opening hours: Thursday to Sunday 10 am to 5 pm, closed on Monday and Tuesday
• Website: https://farsimcollection.com/

All texts and pictures ©Ms. Unexpected.